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Classic ascent on a picture-perfect peak


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Map Key

5.7

Miles

9.2

KM

Ascent

12,077' 3,681 m

High

7,101' 2,164 m

Low

4,999' 1,524 m

Up

40' 12 m

Down

17%

Avg Slope (9°)

70%

Max Slope (35°)
Type: Backcountry or Sidecountry

Description

Follow Horse Creek Trail to about 8000ft. The last section of the following mile with little elevation gain can turn into messy up and down, but soon the valley opens up and starts climbing to the next bench at about 9300ft. From the bench, aim up and right over a minor ridge and follow the obvious drainage straight up to the peak. Once on the small, permanent snowfield at 10,600ft, follow the steep gully to the left of the summit pyramid to a notch on the west ridge of Matterhorn Peak. From the notch, traverse without much elevation gain to the S-ridge and follow that easy to the summit.

The gully to the right of the summit pyramid has similar angle, but reaching the summit is difficult. The broad snow slope further left ("Ski Dreams") also reaches the west ridge, and a short rocky scramble connects with the path to the summit.

Good camp sites are at the big bench at 9300ft.

Contacts

Shared By:

Oliver Kaltenbrunner

Trail Ratings

  5.0 from 3 votes

#1

in High Sierra

#8

Overall
  5.0 from 3 votes
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Ascent Rankings

#1

in High Sierra

#1

in California

#8

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1,748 Since Jun 26, 2019
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Photos

Reaching the bowl below the summit at about 10,500ft. East Couloir to the left of the summit.
Jun 26, 2019 near Bridgeport, CA
East Couloir under icy, unskiable conditions
Jun 26, 2019 near Bridgeport, CA
The flat area at about 8200ft elevation can be 'complicated'
Jun 26, 2019 near Bridgeport, CA

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May 9, 2020
thatboyaintright .
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